Where did they live?

Donegal is rich in associations with the Ó Baoighill, both in place names and the scant physical evidence of substantial dwellings, usually referred to in the folk tradition as ‘forts’ or ‘castles’. Given the extent and frequency of inter- and intra-sept conflict which usually involved cattle-rustling and plundering, strong defences were necessary for those who had something to lose. Typically this took the form of a stone-built tower house surrounded by a 'bawn' or enclosure. Building on an island gave additional protection. In other parts of the country, wooden structures were common, but in west Donegal, suitable wood was scarce, whereas stone was plentiful.

There is a concentration of known O'Boyle fortified dwellings around Loughros bay, an area formerly known as Baoillaigh Iochtar (Lower Boylagh ). These include Doon Fort, a prehistoric structure that pre-dates the Ó Baoighill by a few thousand years but is associated with them in the local folklore, and some documented sites, but with little if any physical remains, at Kiltoorish, Crannogeboy and Maghera. Inishkeel island has monastic remains, and is likely to be one of the burial sites of prominent Ó Baoighill people.

At the southern end of their territory, Baoillaigh Uachter (Upper Boylagh) stood Ballyweel (or Ballyboyle) castle, probably the principal residence of the leaders of the sept in the sixteenth century. Finally, Turlough Roe O'Boyle on being relocated to the north of the county in the early 1600's built Faugher House, of which some ruins are still visible.

For most of these, it’s not possible to give precise dates of occupation by the Ó Baoighill, or even which members of the family lived there. But at a time when most of the population would have lived in impermanent dwellings, it is likely that only the most powerful and senior members of the family were living in fortified stone buildings.

Doon Fort

The most impressive is the prehistoric Doon Fort, or O’Boyle’s Fort. This is probably over 3000 years old and is one of thirty massive Iron or Bronze Age forts along the western seaboard of Ireland, linking Donegal to Kerry, known as Western Stone Forts. It takes up most of a small island in Doon Lough, near Naran on the Dawros Point peninsula, an area rich in prehistoric sites.

Though there is little hard evidence, the local tradition considers this to be an important stronghold of the Ó Baoighill in the medieval period. Having been ousted from their ancient territory to the north by the MacSweeneys in the 14th century, it is plausible that the sept would have made use of an existing well-defended structure in their new territory.

Kiltoorish

Nearby, Kiltoorish was the residence of Toirdhealbhach Ruadh Ó Baoighill (Turlough Roe O’Boyle), reputedly the last chief of the name. Though he lived here for most of the first half of the 17th century and is well documented, there is there is some uncertainty where his house was. O’Boyle’s Island on Kiltoorish Lough has a few remains of a ‘castle’ and is marked on maps as such (see below).

There are references to the O'Boyles in the vicinity throughout the 15th and 16th centuries, but in 1588, when the Duquesa Santa Ana was grounded on nearby Tramore Strand, the crew sheltered in "the ruins of O'Boyle's Castle". Then in 1601 it was notes that Niall O'Boyle, Bishop of Raphoe was living there, near his kinsman Turlough. Did he repair the castle, or was there another house? Even though Turlough Roe's land was confiscated and he was transplanted to the north of the county , where he built Faugher House, he is reported to have been in Kiltoorish in the 1620s, and in the 1640s and 50s, he is still described as Turlough O'Boyle of Kiltoorish.

The Civil Survey of 1654-6 notes "In this land abovesaid is a Bawne, and one old Ruinous house, in the halfe quartr of Kildoruse, within a fresh water logh, in a small Island,

The National Inventory of Architectural Heritage[1] describes it as follows, based on a 1983 survey:

"In 1601, Bishop O'Boyle is recorded as living in this castle, and the island is described in the Civil Survey as having 'aband [a bawn?] and one decayed house'.

An early 19th century tradition ascribed the construction of this castle to a Bishop O'Boyle. In 1847, Fagan recorded that 'to its eastern end stood a round tower, the base of which is still traceable and which together with two gables of the castle, stood within memory about 40 ft high. The castle and courtyard is supposed to have stood 150 ft by 150 ft. . . . much of the walls were without cement . . .' One gable fell in 1793 the other in 1844 and its tower fell around the time of the latter date. There were formerly three cannon on the island but two were lost in an attempt to bring them across the lake in the 18th century, the third lay within a few yards of the castle in 1847 (Fagan Bk. 22, 24-31). (These are possibly cannon from the Armada ship Duquesa Santa Ana which was grounded on the nearby strand.)

The 'island' is now joined to the mainland on the SW and only c. 6m of the W wall of the castle survives, 2m thick and 3.5m high. It is in a parlous condition and has a mural stairs, 1.3m wide and 1.5m high, rising from S to N. The S section set back to c. 92 cms thick above the stairs, preserves the remains of a simple rectangular window. The grass-covered lower courses of-a number of walls survive to the W.

When the Armada ship Duquesa Santa Ana was grounded on the nearby strand, it is reported that the crew took refuge in "the ruins of O'Boyle's Castle" on Kiltoorish lake. As the castle was just a few hundred metres from the strand, it fits the bill as the location of the Spaniards’ refuge. However, just a few years later in 1601, it is mentioned as the abode of Neil O’Boyle, Bishop of Raphoe. Was it in ruins in 1588, but rebuilt by the bishop?

Crannogeboy

On the opposite side of Loughros More Bay there are more locations associated with the family. Crannogeboy on the Loughros Point peninsula was the site of a substantial residence, probably fortified, which was the base for some powerful members of the sept until the early 17th century. John O’Donovan who visited the area in 1835, working on the Ordnance Survey, wrote that “the site of O'Boyle's residence at Loughros Bay is yet pointed out by the natives of the barony of Boylagh. It was called Crannóg bhuidhe, i. e. the yellow crannog”. He attributes this house to Conor O'Boyle who in 1540, in conflict with his brother Niall, both were killed. However elsewhere he states:

Crannogboy is said to have been the residence of O'Boyle in ancient times, and some of the walls of his fortress are yet shown there. I cannot, however, think that this was the seat of the O'Boyle, as there are two other places, seats of that family, of more importance in the county, viz., Ballyboyle to the west of Donegal town, and Kilturis Lough in Iniskeel, which I find marked on Norden's map as " Enish-O'Boyle. On an island in this lough are yet to be seen the ruins of a strong house, which tradition remembers to have been built by a bishop O'Boyle as a place of refuge from the fury of the O’Donnell when he (the Bishop) had committed a breach of the rules of the church[Biggar, 1908]”.

Neverthelesss, the tradition that Crannogboy was an Ó Baoighill stronghold persisted, as this may be the building referred to in an account from the 1930’s:

“The only old ruin in the district is one called O'Boyle's Castle in the townland of Cronaghbois. The O'Boyle family were a power in Loughros Point and on the opposite shore at Maghera. All that remains of the castle is rectangular shaped affair about 100' X 60'. The wall is about 3 ft wide made of stones and mortar and varying in height from 10 ft to 2' or 3'. The interior has been dug up by the present owner of the land and it at present is growing a crop of cabbage[2]”.

“In that year (1619) the protestant planters under Sir John Murray took possession of Loughros Point and installed themselves in O'Boyle's castle the ruins of which can still be seen on a farm occupied by Mr Frank Gallagher of Stonebrook. According to Canon Maguire it was after this event the O'Boyle's took up their abode in Maghera”[3]

Fort of the O'Boyles, Stonebrook, Crannogeboy, Ardara © Bart Whelan

Maghera

The ‘abode in Maghera’, on the opposite side of the estuary was on an elevated site on the slopes of Slieve Tooey, giving a wide view of the approaches both by land and sea. Only a pile of stones remains to testify to what must have been a substantial building.

However, it is unlikely that the O'Boyles would have built a fortified dwelling at this location following their expulsion from their territory at the time of the Plantation of Ulster, as this area was now in the possession of Scottish Planters who would be unlikely to approve of such a symbol of independence and resistance. It may therefore be much older than the folklore suggests. On the other hand, the planters were not successful in attracting new Protestant tenants to this remote and unproductive region, and seem to have left the 'natives' very much to their own devices as long as their rent was paid.

The National Inventory of Architectural Heritage gives no indication of its origins or usage but describes it as follows: Internal Diam 23.5m N-S. A subcircular area enclosed by a partially collapsed stone wall except on the N and NE sides where the natural slope may have precluded the need for a wall. The wall survives up to 2.38m in height to the SW. There is a definite entrance to the SSW. This entrance has been deliberately blocked by the building of a rectangular structure 2.4m E-W × 1.5m N-S. The site is located on top of a knoll in an exposed but naturally defended position. There is pasture and arable land nearby and Loughros Beg Bay is to the N.

Inishkeel

From the Irish Inis Caoil, ‘narrow island’ it is a tiny (96 acres) island just off Naran strand which can be reached on foot at low tide. Tradition states that St Conall founded a monastery here in the 6th century, and the walls of a small roofless 13th century church are still standing. There is an ancient cemetery with some finely decorated grave-slabs, probably from medieval times.

It was here that Niall O’Boyle, Bishop of Raphoe was buried in 1611, and a lament composed about 1800 for Donnchadh O Baoighill asked rhetorically if it were not better for him that he was now dead and buried with his forefathers in Inishkeel than faoi chosa Gall, faraor, ag díol cíos leo, (under foreigners’ feet, alas, paying rent to them). This cemetery, then, is most likely the burial place for many of the leading members of the O’Boyles, for it is only a short distance from a number of houses they inhabited at Kiltoorish, Crannogeboy and Maghera

O'Boyles castle Maghera, Ardara. It overlooked the three bays of Loughros More, Loughros Beg and Maghera, it is 407 feet above sea level, the walls are still showing the outline of the castle © Copyright Bart Whelan

[1] https://heritagedata.maps.arcgis.com/apps/webappviewer/index.html?id=0c9eb9575b544081b0d296436d8f60f8&query=18a4bc9c428-layer-10%2CREG_NO%2C40906421

[2] The Schools’ Collection, Volume 1048, Page 407 https://www.duchas.ie/en/cbes/4428334/4396388/4486202

[3] The Schools’ Collection, Volume 1041, Page 88 https://www.duchas.ie/en/cbes/4428309/4393842

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